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February 22, 2019 5 min read

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This is a very subtle oil base perfume: Made with Organic Jojoba Oil, Immortelle oil and fractionated coconut oil 

First impression: Citrus, Bergamot followed by rose, ylang-ylang

After 15 minutes: Woody from patchouli and agarwood (oud) sweet vanillic

Lady: Try this, very lovely oud perfume oil!

Below is the interview with the creator: Wei Tham from Coast Sydney Botanical

 

 

1) You were in Finance before. What makes a turning point to skincare?

I have a double degree in Accounting and Law and have since worked in the Finance Corporate world. My passion into natural skincare was not planned but originated from my experimenting with my own concoction of lotions and potions in a bid to manage my own skincare dermatitis. After a long stint using steroid creams and trying all sorts of other non-steroid lotions, I figured that there must be a better healthier way of managing my skincare issues. This set me on a path of experimentation. I did my own research and decided to purchase a Rosehip Seed Oil which was extracted via SComethod (Supercritical C

arbon Dioxide). SCo oils are expensive but well worth the price. Within 2 days, the itchiness had subsided and it was at this point that I realised that using the right quality ingredient mattered a whole lot and made all the difference. It was a powerful moment for me and I felt that I had a “sense of duty” to let others know about the power of natural ingredients. After extensive research, I started Coast Sydney Botanicals in late 2016.


2) From Candle to skincare and perfume, how long does it take?


I started my natural skincare product gradually, put it this way. I started making natural soy wax candles using synthetic fragrance oils with a friend and we set up our first brand called Coast Candle Sydney. You see, I have always been a lover of scent, using perfumes, candles, and home fragrances. So doing this just make sense to me. With time, as I learnt more and more about fragrances, the
difference between fragrance oils and natural essential oils and precious absolutes, I gradually realised that using fragrance oils in the long term may not be the best option. I have now switched to making Soy candles using essential oils only. From candle making with essential oil, it was naturally an easier progression to natural perfume using essential oils. Easier but it was not easy as it required extensive knowledge of what makes a perfume with its 3 main layers- Base, Mid and Top notes. I spent a lot of time experimenting as well
to get the 5 scents that I have today; Bali Champaka Charm, Noumea Jasmine Paradis, Nice Tuberose Touch, Cassis Dream and Petra Rose Noir, of which the last one uses Oud as its main base note. Then I gradually branched out into Skincare in late 2016. It took around one year of many late nights to transition from candles to perfume to skincare.



3) What are the challenges you are facing?


My biggest challenge is the marketing side. With so much competition in Australia and worldwide, it is not easy to get noticed amongst a sea of brands. Having to compete with bigger brands who have the budget to splash out on expensive marketing campaigns is a challenging part of any small business. As such, newcomers have to be even more innovative and as a result, I am proud to be the first Australian skincare creator using a unique botanical extract called Nephelium Lappaceum or known commonly as the Rambutan seed peel extract, which is specially sourced from France. The next challenge is international shipping which is just so expensive sending it from Australia to anywhere in the world as we are tucked away from the rest of the world! So competing on the international level makes it difficult too especially when you are just starting out with limited capital.

4) What makes you interested in Oud? 


As a natural perfumer, I love Oud for its unusual and distinctive scent that when combined in the right proportions, can transform an ordinary floral scent to a multi-layered scent that is deep and alluring, sensual. There are no other deep or dark complex base notes like Oud. Even within Oud tones
itself, there are different levels of “darkness”- some more obnoxious smelling of burnt rubber or dirt, to smoother alluring notes. It is this complexity that makes it interesting to work with Oud! I love the challenge too in working with Oud in coming up with the right proportions.


5) How does Oud make you feel?
I love Oud for its strong powerful scent which makes me feel equally strong and confident. You either love Oud or don’t. Its one of those scents that need to suit your personality, I reckon.

 

6) Review Agarwood Oil: Oud Evergreen and Smooth Oud Thai

We are grateful for Ms. Wei Tham's kind review in relation to our agarwood oil

Agarwood Evergreen Superior

 Evergreen opens with a strong, musky, leathery scent that lingers long in the air. On its own, it is not for the faint hearted yet it is this strong deep alluring scent with a touch of fresh green accord that makes this oil so complex and special. This is a perfect base note for a muskier exotic scent and would be a great combination with a white floral mid note that is equally strong but mellows out into a creamy accord to balance it out. This is one of my favourite oud oil as it has a perfect balance of animalistic leathery accord which I personally love. This suits a perfume that is deeper and luxurious, perhaps for night use.

The scent has a strong staying power and mellows out into a smoky accord. So what remains after 3 hours is a softer smoky scent, that would make a wonderful base for a unisex perfume!

 

Smooth Thai Floral

My initial impression of Smooth Thai Floral Oud is that it is a light-woody fragrance with a touch of sweet honey and vanilla. This oud oils smells different as I am so used to the Leathery animalistic scent of oud versus a more creamy softer note.

The scent is not as strong as the Evergreen which makes this perfect for a more floral perfume with just a needed touch of base note that is balsamy and woody. This suits a perfume that is lighter and more casual, perhaps for day use.

As it dries down, the creaminess intensifies with a coconut-y scent. This scent can even be used on its own as a standalone perfume oil when diluted. Its roundness and with no harsh edges is what I love about this oud oil as it is already perfectly balanced on its own.  Both oils have amazing longevity and I found myself sniffing my skin throughout the day while testing both these oils. For anyone who is interested in natural perfumery, you can’t go wrong with either the Evergreen or Smooth Thai Floral, one perfect for day and the other for the night!!

 

 

1 Response

Anne Hulls
Anne Hulls

March 06, 2020

You have written a very informative article with great quality content and well laid out points. I agree with you on many of your views and you’ve got me thinking.
https://www.theessentialslab.com/

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